A Weekend in Anguilla
Food, drink, and relaxation in the Caribbean’s culinary capital By Anna Staropoli
Anguilla may only span 35 square miles, but the island packs plenty of punch both through rum and restaurants. Widely regarded as the Caribbean’s culinary capital, Anguilla claims it has more restaurants per capita than New York City.
The island’s trademark dishes include Caribbean classics such as Johnny cakes, fresh seafood, and peas and rice, though every restaurant offers its spin on the staples.
Much of Anguilla’s charm is in its remote nature. There’s no public transportation on the island, so taxis are the predominant mode of transportation with a ferry or two thrown in along the way.
Where to Stay
The 76-room Zemi Beach House, for instance, refuses to treat food as an afterthought. Overlooking Shoal Bay, this five-star hotel could easily rest on its laurels of pristine scenery and top-tier amenities that include private plunge pools attached to waterfront suites, a sprawling solar farm that powers the resort daily, and a luxe Thai spa with Anguilla’s only hammam.
Guests are welcomed on arrival with a glass of rum punch at check-in, a tower of fruit and miniature desserts inside their suite, and a nightly turndown service that includes freshly-baked cookies. Look out for chef Emanuele Sabatini’s outstanding bread, thanks to unique pairings like sweet potato rolls and paprika butter.
Though resort living can be tempting, venture out and explore this small island paradise through its food and drink. Below, you’ll find recommendations for where to dine in Anguilla, whether you’re on property or sailing on a boat.
Where to Eat
Is there any greater luxury than idling on the beach with fluffy pastries, colorful fruit, and a bottomless carafe of coffee? At 20 Knots, you’ll fill your buffet plate with fried plantains, coconut brioche, and omelets made to order. The coffee creamer even comes warmed — a nice touch, if you’re looking to linger. By noon, the buffet gives way to an à la carte lunch, then dinner where any of the offered Caribbean curries deserves a spot at the table. Don’t sleep on the risottos and pasta, created by chef Sabatini who trained in Rome. The chef delights in infusing Italian classics with Caribbean inspiration.
For a more upscale dinner, Stone greets you with a waft of air conditioning and a sleek, chic dining room. The menu divides entrees by sea and land (there’s also a vegetarian gnocchi), though it’s the small plates that steal the show. The jammy truffle egg served with grilled asparagus and truffles rivals any entrée. Pair it with the beef cheek or grilled red snapper, and make sure to save room for dessert. A scoop of homemade ice cream is the perfect palate cleanser, no matter how full you think you are.
Visit another island from the island, and you’ll enjoy one of Anguilla’s best meals. After you take a boat from Sandy Ground Beach, you can swim, sunbathe, and stroll across intimate, private Sandy Island. The restaurant’s thorough menu offers exactly what you’d want while by the water: fresh fish and a slew of cocktails. Snag a picnic table to share surf and turf platters with your feet in the sand. If you time your lunch right, you’ll also enjoy live music.
Where to drink
On an island where being outside is the main attraction, cozying up inside a dark, moody bar may sound unappealing. Yet everything about the Rhum Room works, from its dark wooden tables to the blue velvet chairs and leather couches. With a deliberately tattered menu and a glass globe for mixing drinks, the Rhum Room evokes a pirate ship harboring a 140-rum treasure. Guests can order a range of rums straight — pours of Jamaica’s Appleton 50-year go for $650 each — but it’s the intricate, fermented cocktails that prove the bar’s prowess. Try the Caribbean milk punch, which includes mauby syrup and sorrel tea.
Head straight from the beach to the bar at Bohio Lounge, which serves cocktails and mocktails with a side of sushi and jazz. It’s the perfect stop for a pre-dinner drink or nightcap, thanks to its view of the beach and spectacular sunsets. Of Zemi’s sit-down restaurants, this is the least formal, unless you order a tamarind mojito directly from your poolside recliner.
Some of Anguilla’s best drinks are served before you even arrive. When planning a trip to Anguilla, tourists can fly directly to the island, though it’s more common to fly to neighboring St. Maarten and take a roughly 20-minute ferry.
While various companies operate the boats, Funtime’s ferry will start and end your trip in high spirits. Upon boarding, you can order complimentary drinks, whether you want a cold beer or the Caribbean’s trademark rum punch. On a clear day, you’ll sip your beverage of choice as you glide across the Anguilla Channel. Even when the weather proves a little more precarious — as it did upon my arrival — choppy waves and a windswept route are nothing rum can’t fix.