A Weekend in Panama City
Ceviche, Beer, One of the Man Made Wonders of the World, and shopping for the real Panama Hat
For most of us, choosing a weekend destination can be challenging. Do we want a city filled with food? A stroll through cobblestone streets that speak of hundreds of years gone by? A culinary destination filled with interesting things to eat and drink? Perhaps a bit of nature watching?
If you’re looking for a bit of all of the above, Panama City is the surprising answer. The capital of Panama, Panama City, is a bustling metropolis of more than one million people. It’s best known for the Panama Canal — the modern-day wonder that allows ships to cross between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, allowing them to avoid the long and hazardous route around Cape Horn — but Panama City is much more than that. It’s a thriving home to lively rooftop bars, decadent shopping, and amazing food. If you want to commune with nature, rainforests filled with birds and monkeys are a short drive away.
How to Get to Panama
Copa Airlines offers nonstop flights to Panama City’s Tocumen International Airport from New York, Miami, San Diego, Orlando, Washington Dulles, Los Angeles, Chicago, Boston, Fort Lauderdale, Tampa, and more. The airline serves many South American countries, but since its headquarters are in Panama City, it offers a generous “stopover in Panama” program where you can stay a few days in Panama before or after your final destination at no additional charge if you’re connecting through Panama City. You’ll also be able to take advantage of discounted hotels, restaurants, and attractions. It’s a pretty sweet deal. Panama City is also centrally close to most cities in the U.S. with nonstop flights from New York City about five hours and from Miami about three hours. Copa also offers a hot meal on most flights three hours or longer. On my flight from Miami to Panama, I was quite pleased with my arroz con Pollo. Considering you’re lucky to get little more than a bag of pretzels or Biscoff cookies, this was a welcome change.
Where to Stay
Hotel La Compañía
Part of the Hyatt Unbound Collection, the Hotel La Compañía is located in Panama City’s Casco Antiguo, the city’s historic district. The hotel is steeped in history and is located on the site where La Compañía de Jesús (Company of Jesus) settled after the destruction of the original Panama City back in 1671, and the Jesuit Convent was constructed here in 1673. The property consists of three wings: the Spanish Colonial wing, which dates back to 1688; the French Colonial wing, which was built by Jesuit priests in 1739; and the American wing, which dates back to 1904. All three wings surround a beautiful courtyard where you can hear birds singing each morning from your Juliet balcony.
The hotel offers a very good selection of dining options, including Italian, French, Mexican, and even an American-style pub. Be sure to have a cocktail at Exilio Bar, named for the secret exile order, made by King Carlos III of Spain in 1767, that called to suppress the Jesuits. Take a moment to notice the mahogany bar, supported by five carved figureheads representing the ships that took the Jesuits back to Toledo, Spain, after their exile. The hotel also has an outstanding wine cellar housing more than 1,800 bottles.
Where to Eat
Villa Ana
A beautiful four-story villa on a beautiful town square houses Villa Ana, a combination restaurant, art gallery, rum and cigar lounge, and speakeasy. Villa Ana offers live Jazz several nights a week, and is visually stunning. You’ll have to take my word for it, however: cell phones are secured upon check-in to ensure you’ll be present for the evening ahead.
Lazotea
Rooftop dining is a ritual in Panama, and Lazotea is a lively spot with a gorgeous view of the glittering and impressive Panama City skyline. Chef Jorge Rausch helms the kitchen at this restaurant, which serves everything from burgers to lobster.
Cantina del Tigre
Listed in the Lantam 50 Best Restaurants list, Cantina del Tigre is full of surprises, starting when you pull up at the nondescript location, across from an adult toy shop on the outskirts of Downtown Panama City. Walk through the doors and you’re still confounded: jungle sounds of macaws and jaguars fill the space that’s empty save for a mural and a large vaultlike door. Open that second door for entry to the actual dining space featuring the tiger that the restaurant is named after. Chef Fulvio Miranda’s focus is on ceviche, and it’s divine, starting with a vegan fruit ceviche and continuing with every bite after. I ordered a shrimp and a fish ceviche, and both were fresh, tangy, and bursting with flavor, as a ceviche should be but sometimes isn’t in the wrong hands. Though we went for lunch, we had to indulge in cocktails — the bar program is outstanding and innovative, as evidenced by the tomato and tequila cocktail that was light and slightly vegetal and smoky.
Where to Drink
La Rana Dorada
La Rana Dorada is a Panamanian craft brewery that has several brewpubs throughout the city, each serving up freshly brewed beers by friendly people. There’s a good core selection of porters, IPAs, pilsners, and ales, along with a selection of seasonals and sours made with local fruits. It’s a good place to grab an afternoon pint to revive yourself after an afternoon in the tropical heat of Panama.
Geisha Experience
Geisha Experience is not a place to grab an iced soy latte. This coffee house is part museum, part tasting room dedicated to the craft of Geisha Coffee — considered the most expensive coffee varietal in the world. The coffee, originated in Ethiopia, but is now mainly sourced in Panama. Its known for its floral, sweet, and tea-like profile, with notes of jasmine, bergamot, and even hints of apricot or peach. The coffee is astoundingly expensive — when I went, its pricing was $4,541 USD per pound. Thankfully, you can book tastings for far less. It’s a must-do for coffee aficionados.
What to Do
Museo del Cacao y del Chocolate
IF you’re looking for proof that love for Willy Wonka is universal, look no further than the Museo del Cacao y del Chocolate. This delightful place, located in a robin’s egg-blue townhouse, is a combination chocolate museum (look for the authentic Golden Ticket), chocolate factory, and chocolate shop. It’s a sweet way to spend an hour — and the hot chocolate is divine.
Panama Canal
Considered one of the wonders of the modern world, the Panama Canal is more than a canal — it’s one of the driving tools of world commerce the way we know it. Nearly everything we purchase from other countries — our cars, our clothing, our appliances — has transited through the Panama Canal to get to our doors. Upon arriving at the Panama Canal, you’ll watch an IMAX film about the canal, narrated by Morgan Freeman (be sure to visit the Miraflores lock for the film), whose voice will explain the tragedies and mishaps in building the canal, along with the triumphs. Then, you’ll take a look for yourself. Hopefully, you’ll be present when a giant container ship is making its voyage through the locks. Although it takes hours for a ship to traverse the entire canal system, it takes about ten minutes for the ship to go through a lock, where it is lowered dozens of feet to shift from the Pacific to the Atlantic sea levels. Seeing a mega container or giant cruise ship seem to sink before your very eyes is magical.
Panama Canal Rainforest Boat Adventure
No trip to Panama is complete for me without admiring the lush forests and incredible wildlife. The country is lush with rainforests and you could spend weeks exploring its wilder side. If you’re just in Panama City for the weekend, you could still see a few monkeys and go birdwatching on a tour of Gatun Lake. A guide will pick you up at your hotel for a quick 30-40 minute drive to Gatun Lake. There, you’ll hop on a boat that best resembles Bogie’s African Queen. Your excursion on Gatun Lake includes a naturalist who will point out local flora and fauna. We spotted tiny bats sleeping in formation, spider monkeys, howler monkeys, a crocodile, egrets, and more.
Calle de los Sombreros
Panama hats are not just a tourist thing. In a country situated just north of the Equator, the sun is relentless and piercing. Hats are not just a fashion statement in such a climate — they are survival (but make it fashion). Panama City’s Calle de los Sombreros pays tribute to the Panama hat by hanging hundreds of colorful hats by wire along the rooftops of this cobblestone street. It’s a requisite picture for your social media.
El Palacio del Sombrero
No trip to Panama is complete without purchasing a Panama hat of your own, but the touristy shops that sell hats (including — shockingly — the ones sold at the Panama Canal gift shop) are likely made in Japan and carried over in one of those cargo ships you just saw at the Canal. An authentic Panama hat will set you back anywhere from $150 to thousands of dollars. You’re paying for craftsmanship and durability. After all, the hats were originally designed for everyday wear and tear. A Panama hat is crushable, foldable, and some are even water resistant. El Palacio del Sombrero sells authentic Panama hats in an array of styles, sizes, and price ranges, so there’s one that will fit your budget and your fashion sense.