A Weekend in Talkeetna, Alaska
Denali views, cold beer, a cat mayor, and more
Unless you live in the Pacific Northwest, Alaska is not everyone’s idea of the perfect, last-minute getaway — but maybe it should be. Most people experience Alaska by cruise ship, traversing the state’s Inside Passage or Gross Gulf routes.
There is an alternate way to see Alaska, and I would argue it’s a much better way to have unique experiences on your own terms, mostly free from the hoards of people that flood cruise port towns when the ships are in port.
Flying into Anchorage, be sure to take in the spectacular view of the Chugach Mountains. The airport is a stone’s throw from Downtown Anchorage, which is the perfect place to start or end your Alaskan adventure.
Just two hours north of Anchorage and halfway to the entrance to Denali National Park, Talkeetna is best known as the gateway to Denali. Serious alpinists daring to climb one of the seven summits use Talkeetna as their base, hiring a plane to take them to Denali Base Camp for the two-week-long summit push.
Although, technically, Denali is still hours away, Talkeetna has the better vantage points if you want to catch Denali’s majestic summit — though be forewarned: Alaskan weather doesn’t always cooperate, which is why a sighting of Denali’s peak puts you into the coveted 30 percent club (only 30 percent of visitors get to see that view).
Where to Stay
Talkeetna Alaskan Lodge
Your best opportunity to see Denali is to stay at the Talkeetna Alaskan Lodge. Open from May through September (and then again for a short winter period, perfect for Northern Lights viewing).
The lodge’s main lobby comes equipped with a two-story high fireplace that welcomes you right in — along with a 2,000-pound stuffed Grizzly that was shot by a ten-year-old girl.
The lodge offers a large outdoor deck with firepits and a direct views of Denali and her sister peaks — Mount Foraker, Mount Hunter, Moose’s Tooth, and Broken Tooth.
The sun sets late in the summer, so be sure to stay up (or set your alarm) to get a glance of Denali under pink skies. After a long trip that consisted of two six hour flights, I was rewarded with a view of Denali and her sister mountains under a rainbow-colored sky.
The lodge offers rustic yet comfortable accommodations with plush beds beds and beautiful views. The lodge also takes pride in sourcing local ingredients for its menus. Food and Beverage director, Wes Choy, is extremely hands on when it comes to procurement, with head chef Austin Chappelle executing a menu that highlights the best of Alaska.
At Base Camp Bistro, enjoy breakfast with views of the mountains, and possibly even a moose or two. The restaurant, which also serves lunch and dinner, offers an array of local fare, including reindeer sausage, caribou meatloaf, and local salmon.
The lodge’s fine dining restaurant, Foraker, offers an array of locavore cuisine, including halibut, red king crab, salmon, bison tartare, and black cod. The restaurant’s wine list received Wine Spectator’s “Award of Excellence”, and offers wine pairing dinners.
Although it may sound like a cliche, but eating fresh caught Alaskan seafood is in a class of its own. The salmon, for instance, is sweet and buttery and a far cry from the farmed salmon most of us are accustomed to . While I was there, chef Chappelle took out group to the kitchen, where he presented a large king salmon, fresh from the river. He then showed us how to break down the 30-pound beast before cooking it simply for us. That’s what Alaska is, in a nutshell.
What to Do
When in Talkeetna, you have to visit Downtown, to use that term loosely. The town, which has a population of about 1,000, offers a downtown area about two blocks long filled with local shops and restaurants. Happily, there are no fast food places, no Starbucks, and no giant drugstore chains. If you need some aspirin (or a soda or sunscreen or a phone charger), there’s only one place in town: Nagley’s Store. Established in 1921, it’s the place to stock up on supplies, grab an ice cream cone, and meet the mayor.
The mayor, by the way, is a cat named Aurora. The first cat mayor, Stubbs, passed away in 2017 (and had several death threats against him). He was replaced by Denali, who also died in 2022, when his sister Aurora took on the duties. Nagley’s sells various Cat Mayor postcards and stickers, so be sure to pick up a few.
Kahiltna Birchworks
Just a few miles from Downtown Talkeetna, Kahiltna Birchworks harvests about 100,000 gallons of birch sap from about 6,000 local trees to make birch syrup. The syrup has a distinct earthy/caramel taste to it. Some birch syrups can also have an umami, almost soy taste, making them far more interesting than supermarket syrups. The syrups are not flavored, rather the tasting notes are attributed to different harvest times and years — much like wines.
In Alaska, birch syrup sweetens everything from ice cream and pastries to morning coffee. Kahiltna Birchworks offers tours with a tasting where you can experience a range of different syrups. Just a note, however, birch sugar is toxic to dogs (it’s a main ingredient in Xylitol), so if you bring some home, don’t feed it to your pets.
K2 Aviation
If you’re in Talkeetna, you’re going to want to get closer to Denali, and K2 is the way to do it. This flightseeing service, located directly Downtown, K2 offers flightseeing tours of Denali’s summit and glacier landings.
Sustina Sled Dog Adventures
I’m on the fence about the Iditarod which sees dog fatalities nearly each year. However, there no denying that getting pulled by a team of dogs is fun, and playing with puppies even more so. There’s no shortage of sled dog experiences in Talkeetna.
Aurora Dora
Talkeetna is one of the best places for viewing the Northern Lights, or Aurora Borealis. But, since most people visit in the summer, that pesky summer solstice gets in the way. Thankfully, "Aurora" Dora Redman has captured these mystical lights for you. Her gallery is located in Downtown Talkeetna, and all items can be shipped directly home.
Hiking
Alaska is the great frontier, and getting out and about on foot is a spectacular way of exploring. In the summer, trails are blazing with wildflowers and fiddlehead ferns. There are many trails in Talkeetna that range from short walks with views of Denali to technical mountain hikes. Find your trail here.
Where to Eat
Homestead Kitchen
This rustic restaurant takes cues from the Homesteaders who founded Talkeetna with a menu that includes a take on a shepherd’s pie made with local elk meat, pimento grilled cheese, and a smoked Alaskan salmon BLT.
Flying Squirrel
This adorable little cafe is a locals hangout that offers oversized sandwiches, birch syrup lattes, and artisan breads and pastries. More than that, it’s a gathering place that hosts live music, art, and community activities. If you have a dog, be sure to take home a few squirrel-shaped dog cookies for your furry friend.
Where to Drink
Denali Brewing Company
This Talkeetna-based brewery has two locations: a brewery just outside of town, offering wood-fired pizzas, and a brewpub in Downtown Talkeetna that serves some fantastic salmon fish dip. The brewery has a fantastic selection of beers, including some fine sours and a great hazy IPA. The brewery also operates a cidery and distillery, so there’s something for everyone.
Fairview Inn
Established in 1923 to provide accommodations to travelers on the road to Fairbanks, the Fairview Inn still provides rooms — warning first that you’ll be sleeping above a bar that happens to be the liveliest place in town (also, you must be 21 or over to book a room - since it’s in a bar). And, believe me — the Fairview is the liveliest place in town. When I went for open mic night, it seemed like the entire town’s population (and a few visitors) were there to listen to what turned out to be fine musicians playing everything from folk to bluegrass to jazz to rock. I returned to the Fairview during the afternoon and struck up a conversation with some interesting people — many who went to Alaska for a vacation and stayed, lured by the wild terrain, the vast frontiers, and the freedom from much of conventional life. Indeed, after a few days in Talkeetna, it was super easy to see why someone might decide to stay — or at least fantasize about a life without Burger Kings and strip malls in a place of stunning beauty where the moose and bear outnumber the people.