Eating and Drinking Around Toronto
Dozens of breweries, international dining, art, and shopping
When I was invited to go to Toronto to try out both its Museum and Brew Passes, I immediately said yes: A weekend of art and craft beer seems like the perfect way to spend an autumn weekend.
Turns out that not only does Toronto have some amazing breweries and fantastic museums (including one devoted solely to….well, soles), but the city has a vibrant food scene that spans different cultures and price points: from the venerable Tim Hortons for maple doughnuts and coffee to a feast for the eyes and palate at Adrak in Toronto’s tony Yorkville neighborhood, I loved every place I tried (a rarity).
Add in some great rooftop bars, interesting shops, and a few touristy attractions like the CN Tower and a strangely satisfying trip to the aquarium, and Toronto stole my heart in more ways than one.
Where to Stay
The Ace Hotel
Located in Toronto’s Garment District, the Ace Hotel received a Michelin Key for its warm design and hospitality. Guest rooms are a study in convenience — they manage to have everything you want and need and nothing else. A hutch holds a desk and chair so you can work for a bit and then close a door and hide all evidence when you want to relax. A window seat allows you to take in Toronto (I woke up each morning to families frolicking with kids and dogs in the park across the street), and a cozy bed offers a good night’s rest.
Alder
The Hotel is home to Alder, a Michelin-recommended restaurant led by chef Patrick Kriss. Most of Alder’s dishes are kissed by the large wood-fired grill and hearth, and the menu is seasonal and locally sourced. I had a melt-in-your-mouth short rib, followed by blueberry flan. The high point of the meal was the hospitality, though. Tiffany, our server, was not only knowledgeable about the food and cocktails, but when I mentioned that I was into IPAs and was in town to take advantage of the Toronto Brew Pass she sent me a list of her favorite local beers that evening. P.S., her recommendations were spot on and came in handy when trying to navigate through the city’s dozens of breweries.
Evangeline
If you want to say hello to the CN Tower up close and personal, then take the elevator to the Ace Hotel’s rooftop bar, Evangeline. The lounge is a lovely affair: the lush room is flanked by fireplaces to warm up to on a chilly Canadian night. Step outside to toast to a spectacular view of Toronto’s landmark tower.
Where to Eat
Adrak Yorkville
Located in Toronto’s tony Yorkville neighborhood, Adrak is a stunning restaurant. On a Saturday evening, the Michelin-recommended eatery was buzzing. The dining room is splendid: the dining room is a series of beautiful arches in gold and pine green colors that, for some reason, reminded me of dining in a glorious train car during rail travel’s golden era. Adrak offers upscale versions of traditional Indian favorites but the absolute showstopper is its rani kachori — a puffed puri the color of a rose is filled with potatoes, chickpeas, onions, yogurt, and chutney and is garnished with edible flowers. Entranced by its beauty — the dish arrives looking like a giant adorned pomegranate — I was just looking at it before my server did the honors and smashed the glorious dish open. The taste was better than the presentation. Each bite was filled with spicy, tart, piquant, creamy, and cool notes. This will go down as my favorite dish of 2024, for certain.
Tim Horton’s
What can I say — On a Saturday morning, the line at Tim Horton’s across from the Royal Ontario Museum stretched out the door. I am not usually a fan of doughnuts, mostly because they’re just sugar bombs. But Tim’s were yeasty, fluffy, and not as sweet as its American cousins. It's worth a pilgrimage to Canada’s favorite doughnut shop.
Lucie
Chef Arnaud Bloquel helms this Michelin-recommended restaurant where the action (and most seating) is centered around a large, horseshoe bar. The restaurant offers a choice of multi-course menus and serves exquisite French fare in a sophisticated setting that is in no way pretentious, thanks to the bar seating.
Burdock Brewing
If you want a stellar burger, head over to Burdock Brewing. The brewery has more of a brewpub than a large-scale industrial brewery. After a long day of exploring several museums, I needed a cheeseburger and a pint. Burdock offers a fantastic smashburger, which pairs perfectly with its Ducks IPA.
Waterworks Food Hall
Located in the Garment District (across the street from the Ace), you’ll find everything from coffee to ice cream to fresh oysters. I started with some oysters at Island Oysters before moving on to poutine at Dave’s Genuine Deli and a stuffed naan at Karak. I finished with a scoop from Scooped by Demetres.
Where to Drink
Toronto Brew Pass
If you like beer as much as I do, the Toronto Brew Pass is your best friend. Choose between a one-day pass ($22), a three-day pass ($32), or a seven-day pass ($52) and let the games begin. Each pass allows you a flight or pint (depending on the brewery) from your choice of 32 breweries in the Toronto metropolitan area. There are some rules: you can only go to four breweries a day. With a three-day pass loaded onto my phone, I visited 10 breweries in total. My favorites included the goth-inspired Blood Brothers, Burdock (where I paired my free beer with a burger), the baseball-themed Left Field, and the train-themed Steam Whistle Brewing.
What to Do
St. Lawrence Market
Since 1803, St. Lawrence Market has been feeding Toronto. This two-story market is a mecca for shopping for just about anything from oysters to produce to fresh meat. Walking through the market, I fantasized about living in Toronto and shopping at this glorious place while planning a week’s worth of dinners.
Bata Shoe Museum
If Carrie Bradshaw was a museum curator, it would result in the Bata Shoe Museum. This museum runs down the history of the shoe from ancient sandals to modern-day glories. Two current exhibits include an homage to the sneaker and a tribute to the glorious, kitschy styles of the 1980s (from Candie’s to Reeboks). The museum also has many activities and I got to decorate my own shoe to take home.
Royal Ontario Museum
Part art museum, part natural history museum, this massive museum is worth exploring for its Egyptian mummies, extensive Chinese art, and dinosaurs alone (there’s so much more).
CN Tower and Ripley's Aquarium of Canada
Whenever I’m in a new city, I hear the call of its observation deck. I decided to go to the CN Tower just as the sun set and it did not disappoint. Unlike other observation decks, there’s not much of a wait for the elevator. I was rewarded with Toronto turning bright orange then indigo.
Ripley’s Aquarium is located on the same campus as the CN Tower, so I dropped in. Moving walkways allow you to watch sharks and sea turtles glide above you before you’re treated to a stingray petting zoo at the end of your journey.
Distillery District
More than 40 shops, restaurants, bars, museums, and two breweries are all located at this former distillery complex. It’s charming to wander the cobblestone streets. Grab a thick, rich hot chocolate from Soma Chocolate Makers or a beer from Old Flame Brewing, or simply shop. Right now, this historic district is hosting a Christmas Market through the holiday season.