Explore North Fork and Shelter Island's Dining Scene
Explore Salumeria Sarto and nine other restaurants, courtesy of our friends at FOUND NY
This week our friends at FOUND NY — a new twice-weekly newsletter for people with good taste in and around New York City — are checking out the North Fork and Shelter Island dining scene. Check out their reports below and subscribe to FOUND here.
Salumeria by day, osteria by night
The couple who made Nolita’s Peasant an NYC fixture for two decades have migrated to the North Fork. In June, Frank DeCarlo, the chef with a penchant for vintage everything — espresso makers, meat slicers, even a cash register — and his wife Dulcinea Benson opened Salumeria Sarto, a spacious Italian specialty shop and cafe in Greenport, which doubles on Friday and Saturday nights as a five-table set-menu osteria.
The seasonal Italian menu spans six courses including dessert and begins with one of DeCarlo’s house-baked breads, such as pane-ceccina (a chickpea flatbread), before moving into a mix of seafood, meats, and vegetables, like gurgulione — an Italian take on ratatouille with ripe tomatoes, eggplant, and zucchini — and Peasant classics such as lobster risotto and suckling pig. With 16 seats, booking is essential.
In need of Italian larder goods? Wooden shelves along the walls offer supersized dry pasta, metal tins of olive oil, and tiny jars of Shelter Island honey. Call it a night after an espresso pulled from DeCarlo’s retro Rancilio brewer. –Kat Odell
The Nines (nine places to check out on your tasting journey)
The Minnow (New Suffolk), waterfront dining in renovated Galley Ho digs
North Fork Table & Inn (Southold), chef John Fraser carries on a classic
Southold Social (Southold), year-old bistro from chef Francois Payard; see also Southold General for grab-and-go
Alpina (Greenport), a taste of Switzerland with wines to match
Anker (Greenport, above), creative seafood and raw bar from former Four Seasons NYC chef
Little Creek Oyster Farm & Market (Greenport), for shuck-your-own oysters
The Halyard (Greenport), best waterfront views on the North Fork
Duryea’s (Orient Point), offshoot of Hamptons favorite; boat arrival plays
Léon 1909 (Shelter Island), Provençale-style cooking over an open wood fire