Rocco DiSpirito's Hamptons Pop-Up is a Local Food Story
The chef's relationship wth local farmers and fishermen is the key to a beautiful meal
Pop-up by Rocco, the seasonal restaurant by Rocco DiSpirito, is one of the hottest tables to snag in the Hamptons this summer.
The Southhampton eatery garners buzz for its beautiful setting, with an outdoor patio surrounded by flowers, but it’s the menu that has all of the Hamptons talking: a curated list of coastal Italian favorites that reads like a list of what DiSpirito would make for an intimate gathering of friends: a Maine lobster cocktail, James River oysters, fresh farmstand crudites, marinated olives, linquine vongole, spaghetti pomodoro, and sweet nut-crusted halibut are some of the dishes offered.
Dispirito needed only to look out at the ocean and shop for local vegetables to get the inspiration for the pop-up. “I love cooking out here,” says the chef. “The access to produce and seafood is unparalleled.”
Dispirito likes to reverse engineer his dishes — and the purveyors in the Hamptons gave him much to work with, including Hank’s Farmstand in Southampton. “I call Hank in the morning and say, I need six or seven cases of tomatoes.”
DiSpirito says that tomatoes are especially fantastic right now. “Tomatoes and basil are peak quality, and soon it will be corn. How great that I have Sungolds, Heirlooms, and sauce tomatoes that are so beautiful. The work is sourcing the ingredients. That’s true for any Italian dish. The work is obeying Mother Nature.”
DiSpirito uses those tomatoes to make his pomodoro from scratch, turning a simple dish into something craveworthy. “I’ve had cooks ask me why I’m not using canned tomatoes. It’s because I’ve seen people have an a-ha moment with my freshly made pomodoro. They can’t believe how great a pomodoro tastes.” The praise for the pomodoro goes right back to Hank Kraszewski and his farmstand. “Hank and his family pour so much love and joy from their heart into the earth.”
Tomatoes aren’t the only local item that’s inspired the chef this year. The clams coming from the nearby seaside towns of Mastic and Shirley have been especially flavorful this year. “They’re making the linguine vongole very memorable because of the deep richness of the clam’s flavor,” says DiSpirito, who also praises the local line-caught Bluefin. “It’s so good, I can’t even believe it. The colors are a gorgeous ruby red, and the flavor is just mind-blowing.”
The chef says that buying locally caught fish pays off in every aspect. “You can buy blocks of tuna from the same guys who sell you dish soap, but that tuna has no family background, and you can taste it.”
By working with local fishermen, DiSpirito helps the community and provides the best meals for his guests. “I’m happy that I can serve flavors that take your breath away. This is not just a mindless exercise. I see that happen.”
DiSpirito isn’t just about feeding the Hamptons set. The chef plays a big role in advocating for City Harvest, New York City’s leader in helping New Yorkers facing hunger. “I think chefs are uniquely able and suited to help easily with their platforms. We’re passionate about feeding people, and City Harvest has been feeding people for years." I’ve been part of the chefs who have helped for 20 years. I’ve been on the streets, in the field, on the trucks. They’re the largest food rescue organization, and the need for food pantries right now is the highest on record,” he says.
DiSpirito feels it’s his mission to help feed people in any way he can. “Chefs are always there and willing to help. That’s our personality. We’ll take a piece of food off our plate to share with someone.”
Dispirito says the act of feeding someone does have some magic to it. ”We take raw materials and turn them into something delicious.” He adds that the people behind the burner go one step further when they help their neighbors. “We can also move food to pantries. And we are happy to do that.”