The Cocktail Frank is Cool Again
Once a staple at smart parties, pigs in blankets are now in some damn fine restaurants -- and even a cruise ship
In the post-World War II Mad Men era, smart cocktail parties were all the rage, with people dressing up and enjoying Martinis, Pink Squirrels, and Manhattans paired with bite-sized snacks that required no utensils.
Swedish meatballs, bacon-wrapped dates, and crab rangoon were all popular, but the cocktail frank (or pig in a blanket) was the life of the party. Often served on tiered platters and festooned with colorful toothpicks, the cocktail frank was a party regular. Like many food items, the cocktail frank was replaced by newer snacks like wings and nachos, and the party favorite lost its way.
But food is as cyclical as fashion, and it’s safe to say that the cocktail frank is in style once again. This time, it’s dressed up and taking itself to dinner at some smart restaurants.
At New York City’s Bar Mercer, executive chef Preston Clark says its Housemade Pigs in a Blanket is one of the most popular items on the menu. Clark says that when he was finalizing the menu with Bar Mercer owner John McDonald, he knew that the snack would speak to the restaurant’s casual/elegant vibe.
Clark says that each pig in a blanket is individually wrapped in puff pastry. The preparation is time-consuming, but worth it: each bite yields its own mini pork/beef dog resting in a buttery, flakey blanket. Clark calls the pig in a blanket a universal classic. “It’s the one hors d'oeuvre that everyone eats. It doesn’t matter where you’re from.” They’re also infinitely shareable as an appetizer, but don’t discount enjoying an order at the bar with a smart cocktail. For Clark, that’s a Dirty Martini with some extra olives on the side.
The cocktail frank can also be found in Fort Lauderdale at the Sunness Supper Club. The “Lill’ Kosher Everything Hot Dogs” are served with a trip of mustards, are the hottest item on the menu, according to owner Michael Stanley, who loves the cocktail frank for its nostalgia and comfort. “For me, pigs in a blanket are a staple at any gathering, from house parties to weddings and bar mitzvahs. It felt like the perfect addition to offer a restaurant-quality version on our menu. It's a dish that sparks joy, and it's become one of our most popular items.”
At Sunness, large Kosher hot dogs are rolled in puff pastry, bathed in egg wash, sprinkled with “everything bagel” seasoning, and baked. Stanley suggests pairing them with a classic Bloody Mary. “The spicier, the better,” he adds.
The cocktail frank can also be found on the high seas. It’s featured onboard the brand-new megaship, the MSC World America. The ship, which made her maiden voyage this past week after being christened by godmother Drew Barrymore, offers cocktail franks at the Harbour Bar & Bites, where cruisers can pair the mini wieners with a glass of Prosecco and an ocean view.
Finally, the cocktail frank is available once again for smart cocktail parties at home. Goldbelly offers several to choose from, but Walter’s Pigs in a Blanket come from hot dog royalty — Walter’s has been serving its signature dogs (and mini versions) since 1919. Just pop them in the oven, make a batch of Martinis, and invite some friends over. Just don’t forget the mustard!