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'Why New York City Is Synonymous with Restaurants'
The 25th anniversary of Balthazar, reservations open at Laser Wolf, and more news
We’re cherry-picking food news from around New York for today’s roundup. Let us know in the comments other items you’re into.
On Balthazar’s big anniversary
We love a good nostalgia piece and Ben Leventhal’s tribute to Balthazar on its 25th anniversary is glorious. With Balthazar (80 Spring St., Manhattan) holding the longest reign of any pick on the Eater 38, the site he co-founded, he describes Keith McNally’s Soho mainstay as such: “There is no question that it is the best and most convincing explanation for why New York City is synonymous with restaurants, and why New Yorkers believe so deeply that their restaurants are, just, better.”
Also on Resy, Balthazar owner and epic restaurateur, Keith McNally, on his chef hires: “The people in life I tend to admire are those uncomfortable with fame. This is especially true with chefs. The chefs I respect and hire are those most uneasy with the celebrity aspect of the restaurant business.”
Mike Solomonov’s Laser Wolf is taking reservations
Resy shows that Laser Wolf is taking reservations for the Williamsburg location of Philadelphia’s Israeli grill from Mike Solomonov and Steve Cook of CookNSolo — the duo behind Zahav, Abe Fisher, Dizengoff, and Federal Donuts among others. The restaurant will open for lunch and dinner at the Hoxton Hotel (97 Wythe Ave., Brooklyn).
The original location of Laser Wolf was named one of the best new restaurants in the world last year in Conde Nast Traveler. CookNSolo has joined forces with Chicago’s Boka Restaurant Group on the endeavor. The restaurant is Solomonov’s most recent foray into the New York market; the first was Dizengoff at Chelsea Market, which closed in 2018.
Cadence is moving to a bigger location
Ev Grieve reports that Cadence, the vegan soul food spot from Shenarri Freeman, is moving across Seventh Street to the space adjacent to Ladybird (111 E. 7th St., Manhattan) and is due to reopen May 4.
An especially painful labor shortage
Eater NY reports, “In Manhattan’s Chinatown, dim sum parlors are grappling with a shrinking local population and an aging workforce, threatening an important thread of Chinese American heritage.” It takes decades to master the art of making items like dumplings or rice rolls. And it’s becoming more difficult to fill vacancies.
Tip on … everything
“To Tip, or Not To Tip?” explores the nebulous territory of when to tip (beyond dining in a restaurant). Fast-food? Pick-up? Yogurt shops? Do we play it safe and just tip on everything? “In interviews, customers, including some who have worked in the food-service business, said they felt uncomfortable with the many requests to tip, and pressured into giving more.”